This was the hardest trip we’ve planned yet.
But let’s back up. We loved our trip to Guatemala two years ago and since then, we’ve been trying to replicate it. We looked into Costa Rica and Panama, but not only were flights very expensive, Rita felt that the kids really had to be a little older to enjoy the activities that those countries offer. Flights to El Salvador were reasonable and we thought we’d be able to make the trip work logistically. We were 4 adults and 7 kids – ages 10, 8, 6, almost 5, almost 3, 2, and 1. It would be tough, but we assumed that we would be able to hire enough guides and babysitters to help us.
Some years ago, El Salvador was considered a dangerous country filled with gangs and drugs. In 2019, Nayib Bukele became president and cleaned up the country. He put all the gangs in prison and created strict rules designed to keep the people safe. It worked and El Salvador is one of the safest countries today. The police and army presence is strong and we saw multiple armed guards during our trip. Thankfully, we felt safe and comfortable the entire time.
The next major issue is kosher food. In 2022, Rabbi Yudi and Mushka Brod opened a Chabad house in El Tunco, the surfing capital of El Salvador. We had also heard that there was a Jewish couple who owned a hotel called Las Tres Piedras. After careful planning, we decided to split our time over several cities to experience the activities properly, while still having access to kosher food. We didn’t want to base ourselves in El Tunco the entire time because there is not much to do there and it’s far from many other activities. When speaking to Esther, the owner of Las Tres Piedras, she offered to cook us kosher food for the first week of the trip before we headed to Chabad in El Tunco. She also connected us with the rabbi of the San Salvador community to be our guide and someone from the Armenian Jewish community, Asher, to be the driver. In the end, the rabbi only ended up joining us on some days to help transport the luggage (more on that soon), Asher became the tour guide and Alex was the driver. For the first 4 nights we stayed in Las Tres Piedras and Esther prepared the food in the hotel for us for dinners and Shabbat. Once we left to explore other parts of the country, she sent home cooked meals for lunch and dinner with Asher and the rabbi. She also bought us a toaster oven, so we could heat up the food in our hotels. This was extremely convenient and made moving hotels possible. Of course, we still bought a lot of snacks, ramen, tuna, deli, salami, meat mazza for shabbats and some dairy mazza for the first days, but we really relied on her food.
Finally, the itinerary itself was also a challenge. There were very few blogs and itineraries about traveling El Salvador, especially with young children. Rita used the Facebook group “Jewish Girls Travel” where she got limited advice from people who have been there. We created a rough itinerary and as we got closer to the trip, Asher became really helpful, confirming all the details and even visiting some of the sites he hadn’t been to before.
This trip required a ton of coordination between us, Esther, Asher and the driver. When we realized that no car from the rental company would be big enough, Asher found a friend with a 15 passenger van who became our driver for the trip. We ended up taking Uber from the airport to the hotel because it was cheaper and more practical. Since we moved hotels 3 times, we needed another car to transport our luggage with us since the van was only big enough for people. The rabbi ended up moving our luggage most days, until the last day when we had to hire a second van to transport the suitcases. Thankfully, this coordination worked out.
Day 1 – Jiquilisco Bay and Puerta Barilla
We started the day bright and early with the sun pouring into our room. We left Las Tres Piedras by 8 am and drove almost 3 hours to Puerto Barilla. The first activity was a twenty minute walk in the jungle where we were able to see spider monkeys in the wild and feed them plantains. The monkeys were eager for food and seemed trained to gather around the tourists. It was very cool seeing a monkey carry her baby on her back and watching the monkeys swing from tree to tree. The kids also enjoyed feeding the monkeys and watching them in their natural habitat. After the walk back, we ate our lunch and changed into our bathing suits for the afternoon.
We took a lancha to Jiquilisco Bay. It was picturesque and gorgeous to see the water surrounded by some of El Salvador’s volcanos. We passed a few small towns until we stopped at a sandbar. We all got off the boat and had a great time splashing in the 0-3 feet high bay water. The kids found sand dollars and the grown ups enjoying “lounging’ on the sand. We ended our stay at the resort with a quick swim at the hotel pool before making the 3 hour drive home.
Day 2 – Lake Ilopango
After a lot of driving Thursday, we were looking forward to spending time locally near Tres Piedras. We originally planned to use ATV/buggies to head down to the lake, but after one of the buggies malfunctioned, we changed our plans and went in the van. Once we got to Lake Ilopango, we were greeted by stunning volcanic views and an authentic Salvadoran beach. It was mostly rocky with some sandy close to the water. Locals brought their lunches with them and were laying on makeshift hammocks. Our guide told us that most water activities are only offered on Saturdays and Sundays, so we did whatever was available. We took another lancha out to the middle of the lake where some of us jumped into the lake. It was a fun and refreshing activity. While we were deciding what to do, Allen saw a few people attempting to parasail. When we got back, he insisted that we look into it. Sam decided to do the activity, but they wouldn’t let Allen go alone or with Sam because of the weight limit. Sooo… once Sam returned, he convinced Rita to go up with Allen. The ride was relaxing and lasted about 10 minutes minutes before the boat driver made a sharp turn and pulled us into the water. I’ve never done parasailing before and it was a cool, thrilling activity. (Although things haven’t been as cheap as we expected (compared to Guatemala) this cost $80 for the 3 of us to do, which was very economical.) We then returned to the hotel and swam in the infinity pool before it was time for Shabbat.
Esther, the owner of the Las Tres Piedras hotel, prepared an entire Shabbat meal for us, making it very enjoyable and simple for us. Our room was right above the restaurant, so we were able to communicate with the waiters about when to prepare the foods and set up the tables etc. It was a very welcoming environment – Esther even left us toys to keep the kids entertained over Shabbat. On Shabbat morning we hung out by the restaurant, enjoying the beautiful views. We played mahjong and other games, read books, and relaxed in the sun. It was still super windy in the morning, so we decided to only swim after lunch. Lunch was a yummy fish with potatoes and some salads. We spent the afternoon swimming by the pool. Even though it was shady, the kids still had a blast! They enjoyed switching from the hot jacuzzi to the colder pool and making up games with their cousins. We then had a chicken dinner for Seudat shelishit and made it an early night so we could be ready for the big day tomorrow.
Day 3 – Santa Ana
We got off to an early start and successfully left by 7 am to head to Santa Ana Volcano. This was the most discussed activity of the trip – Sam did not want to attempt it with all the kids and was sure that we couldn’t do it. However, all the blogs said that this was a top activity in El Salvador and the rest of the adults didn’t want to miss it. The 4.4 mile hike winds through a covered forest for the beginning portion and then through a rocky, dusty terrain before reaching the top of the volcano. We started the hike at the Casa Cristal location, which supposedly was an easier starting point. We had to purchase tickets and then wait on line to be let into the hike. Supposedly they only send people up in groups. Or maybe it’s because it was a super crowded Sunday. Either way, we were relieved that we made it into the right time. Our friends, the Sayeghs, also met us here for the first time on our trip, and the kids loved hiking together. Thankfully, all the kids cooperated really well and hiked without complaining for the most part. Even Sharon (2) walked for a little, before ultimately being carried by her mom and dad. The beginning part of the hike was generally easy as it was a flat path in a shaded area. After the forest section, the path was filled with rocks and stones and became more complicated. Halfway through the hike, we stopped for ices- a delicious treat after a long, hot walk. As we reached the end of the hike, the wind picked up, making it slightly more difficult. However, the last quarter mile was almost impossible because of the wind and dust flying everywhere. Some of the kids were even scared they would fly away. When we reached the top, almost all of the kids were crying. We thought we would be able to picnic at the top, but that was not going to happen. Luckily the clouds cleared and we were able to see the stunning turquoise water that the Santa Ana volcano is famous for. We were able to get some pictures before beginning the climb down. At this point, everyone was looking forward to less winds in the lower altitudes. On the way down we stopped on the side of the hike to eat lunch. After almost 4 hours (with some breaks) we finished the ascent and descent of the volcano. Our bodies were aching and our faces were dusty, but we did it!! Asher had told us it would be crowded, but we’ve never seen crowds like this in a previous hike. Also, the police were behind our group, making sure that we kept pace, which honestly made it more stressful. At the base of the hike, we found the yummy green mangoes that Rita was dreaming about since Guatemala. What a delicious treat!
We then drove about 45 minutes to Lake Coatepeque. The lake was lined with different restaurants along the dock who offer various kinds of entertainment and activities. We chose one without a cover charge. We decided to do another lancha tour with the Dweks and Sayeghs; this one would take us a geothermal spring. The boat ride was fun, but the hot springs were very small and not exactly as promised. The men and boys jumped off the boat and enjoyed swimming in the lake for a few minutes. Once we headed back, the adults went jet skiing for 15 minutes each and we began the drive to our new hotel, Casa 1800 in Cerro Verde, the national park. I’m not sure if it’s just this particular time, but the wind has been insane; it howls so loudly at night and kept waking us up. Casa 1800 was gorgeous and modern, with beautiful views of the surrounding volcanos. We heated up dinner (which took a while) and it was delicious. Esther prepared us traditional tamales, which were fun and interesting to eat. After a very long day, we were finally able to relax and get some sleep.
Day 4-5 Ruta de Las Flores
Ataco
Our morning got off to a bit of a later start because the driver was stuck in traffic, due to several trees falling down from the intense winds. We’ve been told that these winds are stronger than they’re used to -even in the winter windy season. Thankfully we did the Santa Ana hike yesterday because it closed the few days after we went due to the strong winds.
We headed towards Ruta de Flores, a scenic road connecting several colonial towns. We started in Concepcion de Ataco, where we did some local shopping and ate lunch. We then took a cool trolley tour hooked up to a van to see a stunning viewpoint. It was a cute way to explore the town and see the murals, stray dogs and locals.
Cafe Albania
We then headed to Cafe Albania, known for its colorful rainbow slide. The kids and adults had a blast sliding down the 2 thrilling slides – the first is 140 meters and the second is 180 meters. We also did ziplining and a fun swing ride. This was probably the most touristy attraction of the trip, but it was still a lot of fun!
Temazcal
Hotel Juayua is a relatively nice hotel for the area. We had access to a temazcal, a traditional sauna, and we enjoyed putting mud on our faces and sitting in the hot steam room. It was a relaxing way to end a long day.
Seven Waterfalls Hike
One of the top attractions in El Salvador is the Seite Cascadas/ Seven Waterfalls hike. It is an intense hike through a series of waterfalls. Originally we kept this activity off the itinerary because there was no way the younger kids would be able to do it. However, after some thought, Viviane and Zeke agreed to watch the girls while we took the boys on the hike. We connected with Bryan, a 16 year old who has been doing the hike since he was a kid. For $15 a person, he offered us a private tour of the Seite Cascadas and the Chorro de Caleras, another 3 waterfalls with swimming pools underneath. We were very excited to do this activity. We got picked up in the back a pickup truck (authentic El Salvador) from Hotel Juayua and made the 15 minute drive to the hike. It was super bumpy and uncomfortable, but we enjoyed the chavaya.
The hike began in a shaded, sandy, rocky area. Some points were very steep and narrow and we took extra caution not to fall. After about 25-30 minutes, we reached the first of the seven waterfalls. We stood underneath the water and soaked in the powerful falls. We then continued to waterfalls #2 and #3, which were smaller and offered a nice background for a photo. El Salvador is full of stray dogs and as some of you may know, Rita is terrified of dogs. At some point in the tour, a dog joined our group and started hiking with us and the groups near us. Rita was not happy and turned a scary hike into an even more dangerous one. The highlight of the tour was the 4th waterfall – we literally climbed up the waterfall. Our guide harnessed a rope and we used the rope to steady ourselves as we did a vertical climb. It was insanely cool and probably one of the craziest things we’ve ever done. The boys hiked up like champs and we all felt very accomplished. We then continued on to see waterfalls 5, 6 and 7, which were each pretty in their own way. By the last waterfall, we put some natural clay on our faces as an impromptu facial.
Once we finished the Seite Cascadas, we walked another 20 minutes to the Chorro de Caleras, 3 waterfalls where you could swim in the pools that they create. Sam had a fun time jumping from one of the cliffs and it was cool to see all different people together. Finally, after 3 hours, it was time to complete the trail and head back to the pickup truck. However, we reached an obstacle when the fence was covered in barbed wire and we couldn’t get through. Luckily (?) our guide’s friend had a wire cutter and we clipped through the fence to pass. Once we reached the end, there was another barbed wire fence. This time we just went around it, but it was very dangerous and steep and terrifying as we held on to trees to make it though. Thank you Hashem, we survived the hike in one piece and made it back to the hotel safely.
Juayua
Viviane and Zeke took the other kids on a coffee tour and were back in Juayua for lunch. We quickly showered and met them in Parque Central, where we bought a few more souvenirs, shaved ice for 50 cents, and some candies. We then headed about 45 minutes away to the Santa Teresa Hot Springs. It was advertised as natural thermal springs, but really it was just a hotel with multiple pools, some of which were hot. Nevertheless, we still had a fun time trying out the different pools and exploring the grounds. We then headed back to the hotel, where we had dinner and a relaxing night in.
Day 6 – Mayan Ruins
It was time to leave Ruta de las Flores. Despite its name, the road was not filled with flowers and was not particularly beautiful. We had planned to stop at Nahuizalco to see some of the traditional crafts, but the guide forgot to stop, so we skipped it. He says that it is very similar to the rest of the towns, so I don’t think we missed much. El Salvador was once home to the Mayan civilization. We visited Mayan ruins in Mexico and Guatemala, and at the last minute decided to stop to learn of the Mayan history in Guatemala.
Our first stop was Parque Arqueológico Joya de Cerén – this particular site in El Salvador was unique and is sometimes called the “Pompeii of Central America.” Around 600 CE, the Loma Caldera volcano erupted, burying the surrounding land. Recently, archaeologists uncovered parts of the city and found the remains of government offices, homes with bedrooms and kitchens, and fields. We also saw an authentic temazcal (natural sauna) and how the roof was impacted by the volcanic eruption. Because everything was covered in volcanic ash, the level of detail preserved was amazing. It was fascinating to see how the corn and yucca plants were buried alive. Based on the corn harvest, it is believed that the eruption happened around August. Interestingly, no people were found, which may indicate that the town knew about the eruption and had time to run away. The site is a World Heritage Site and was very organized with a small museum exhibit and an English speaking guide who showed us around the ruins. Even the kids were interested- this was a great stop!!
About 20 minutes away is Parque Arqueológico San Andrés. This site had a small cafe and some local vendors selling sweets and shaved ice. However, the historical features were significantly less built up. We did manage to find a guide to explain the sites to us, but it was in Spanish, so we translated to the best of our ability. We saw the remains of a Mayan pyramid government building, a house and a sacrificial pit. The site seemed less excavated and more similar to what we had seen in Guatemala, although not as large.
We then made the drive to El Tunco, the Surf City of El Salvador. Once we arrived, it felt like we were in an entirely new place. The volcanic views were replaced with rocky beaches with black sand, but still gorgeous sunsets. We stayed in Bocas Olas and rented the large house with 3 bedrooms, a giant kitchen, huge den and an outdoor covered porch. After going to the beach to catch the sunset, we headed to Shakshuka night at Chabad, which was about a 10 minute walk from the hotel. There we met our friends, the Sayeghs, and several solo travelers who were looking for some company and good food. While the building is still being developed, the kids had a fun time playing in the newly laid turf and being in a new environment.
Day 7+ El Tunco Beach
El Zonte Beach & Surfing
El Salvador is such a small country, yet you can experience such differences in elevations and scenery. El Tunco was hot and humid and felt nothing like the volcanic scenes in the mountains. We planned to spend the last part of the trip relaxing by the hotel, which was a beautiful resort and luxury for El Salvadoran standards. There were several pools to swim in and beach access a few minutes walk from the hotel. We wanted to check out the black sand beaches in El Zonte, the town over. We also were looking for natural caves that others had written about. We spent about 2 hours on the beach, mostly near the cave area. It is not a typical American beach with chair service and umbrellas. We dragged our stuff to a spot that looked comfortable and had fun swimming in the ocean for a bit of time. Eventually the waves got too rough and we headed back to El Tunco to relax by the pool. Sam, Zeke and the boys even attempted a surfing lesson, but the water was really quite wavy to be able to do it properly. We ended the night with dinner at Chabad.
Tamanique Waterfalls
The (planned) final major attraction was Tamanique Waterfalls, which is about 25 minutes from El Tunco. We hired a guide through Tunco Life to take us to the waterfall and lead us through the hike. We also hired an official guide for additional help with the kids and bags. It was about a 3 mile hike round trip. We started off on a very rocky road, which then turned into a steep sandy path. The end of the hike required us to climb down several sets of extremely steep steps. Luckily the guides were able to help us, but it still required a lot of coordination and effort. Once we got to the bottom we were able to swim in the waterfall pool, slide down a rock and do a cliff jump. After swimming for thirty minutes, we began the climb back up. Thankfully we all made it back safely and we headed to the pool to relax before Shabbat.
Chabad El Salvador
We were very excited to spend Shabbat dinner at Chabad El Salvador. There were about 30 people for dinner; most of the other guests were Israeli tourists, who are spending their travel year in Central America. Rabbi Yudi and his wife, Mushka, are a young Israeli couple with 2 babies who run a very warm and welcoming Shabbat meal. There were many dips and salads to start, followed by a fish course and then the main course of chicken, string beans, potatoes and rice. At some point, people spoke about something that inspires them and even Allen got up to give a message. We enjoyed the night and it was nice to meet other Jews travelling in the area.
Chabad prayers on Shabbat are very late, so we decided to order food from Chabad to the hotel so that we could be on our own schedule. After Joseph found a hermit crab on the beach, all the kids became obsessed and spend all day catching and playing with them. We spend the day in the pool and ocean, and we were even able to get in some mahjong games poolside.
Our original flight home was scheduled for Sunday at 8 am to land in JFK at 130 PM. New York and most of the East Coast was expecting a big snowstorm. An hour before Shabbat, our flight was cancelled. The airline said that there were no flights until Thursday, so we scrambled to book a new refundable flight for Monday night. As we checked our phones after Shabbat, we were rebooked us on the Tuesday night flight to land in New York late Tuesday night. We decided that that was a better option and cancelled the Monday night flight. Unfortunately, the Dweks were put on the Wednesday night flight. Since we booked on Chase Sapphire, they will cover up to $500 per ticket due to flight delays for hotels and food (not for new flights), so we felt more comfortable with the idea of being in El Salvador for a few more days even though we didn’t have much of a choice.
Bonus Day – San Salvador
When planning the trip, San Salvador was an option for a day of touring, but we felt our time would be better spent elsewhere. Once we would be in El Salvador for a few extra days, we decided to spend Sunday in that area. We started off by going to San Salvador Volcano in El Boquerón National Park. Here, there was a super-volcano that blew the top off the volcano 50,000-60,000 years ago. A smaller volcanic eruption and earthquake occurred here in 1917 in the same spot. We climbed to the viewpoints, and there was also a playground for the kids. For lunch, our tour guide Asher brought us pupusas from home. After stopping at “Picnic” for another rainbow slide and carousel, we made our way to San Salvador’s historical city center. We rode bikes around the square, and toured the National Palace of El Salvador. The palace was finished in 1911, so it was more modern than other such buildings around the world. It was very elegant nonetheless. Last, we visited the national library which was really impressive, with a full floor of toys and books for children, and elaborate exhibits for various book franchises like Star Wars and Harry Potter. The library seemed like a place that local families and children would spend a lot of time – nothing like anything we would have in the US.
With our flight scheduled for Tuesday night, that left us another 2 days in El Tunco. Sam was able to work from the hotel, and we all hung out by the pool and in town.
Concluding Thoughts
We had a blast visiting El Salvador. It was the perfect mix of adventure and relaxation in a hot beautiful place with access to kosher food. However, if you are considering this trip, there are certain things you should be aware of about El Salvador, in no random order.
- Not all hotels are modernized with AC and hot water. Even in the ones that have hot water, it’s sporadic, inconsistent and a slow stream, at best. Even when you book a luxury place, it’s luxury El Salvador level.
- The wind in the mountains was super loud.
- The plumbing system cannot handle flushing toilet paper, so all paper goes in a little garbage can. There were also no tissues.
- We drove around most of the country and didn’t see one traffic light.
- We had no trouble bringing kosher meat / cooked food into the country.
- None of the hotels had cribs / pack and plays. We bought one during Black Friday and travelled around the country with it.
- The country felt super safe and comfortable. We walked around in crowded areas and trusted the people around us. We even sent our luggage to another hotel ahead of us and the hotel stored it for us in our room before we even arrived. Everyone wanted to help with anything we needed.
- There are stray dogs everywhere. They really aren’t interested in you.
- The official currency is US dollars and Bitcoin.
- We didn’t see many large stores or supermarkets throughout the trip.
- There is a large police and army presence in the country.
We had an amazing trip and were glad that we had an extended vacation to avoid the snow storm in New York.
